ENGINEERED TIMBER FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDE
Engineered Timber Flooring is designed to be installed by direct stick glue down or as a floating floor. Herringbone & Chevron can only be installed in a direct stick method.
Heavy and bulky objects, such as kitchen island bench & cabinetry, should not be installed on floating floors, alternatively it can be installed directly & fixed to direct stick flooring. Only Floating Flooring must be cut in and installed around such objects as above. 10% installation wastage when ordering engineered floors is recommended to cover installation cuts, fitment & wastage. 15% - 20% for Herringbone & Chevron is required.
Direct Stick Glue Down Method:
The subfloor shall be clean and free from dust before commencing the installation (Use a broom or vacuum). The subfloor should not be washed or exposed to water prior to installation, always ensuring that the floor is fully dry prior to installation. In gluing the Engineered Timber directly to the sub-floor, the subfloor must be flat and free of any humps & deviations. Use MS Polymer adhesives (BOSTIK ULRASET HP) to adhere the boards to the subfloor. Never use water based glues! Use of other glue types will void the manufacturer’s warranty. Always use a proper moisture barrier between the subfloor and the timber floor to be installed on ground level concrete subfloors.
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Trim door frames by turning a panel upside down as a height measurement and using a multi-tool cutter or jamb saw to cut away the necessary height so that panels can slide easily underneath for a clean finish.
Once you have chosen a starting wall, snap a chalk line or laser to determine the straightness of the wall. After the adhesive is spread and the first row of planks are installed and secured, this will serve as an anchor for the subsequent rows of planks, which will be pushed snug against it. An expansion joint is also needed across the perimeter (8mm for Australian standards at minimum)
Using a trowel according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions on subfloor applications, hold the trowel at a 45 angle to the sub-floor to obtain the proper ridges. Begin spreading the adhesive at the starting wall and cover an area approximately 300mm wide along the length of the wall. The spread rate of adhesive and timing for installation should be according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions of working / dry times. Never spread excessive amounts of glue at one time, never the entire floor, and always work in sections.
Proper placement of the first row of planks is very important. The tongue side of the plank will face away from the starting wall. Lay the first row parallel to the wall, ensuring that it is absolutely straight and tight relative to the starting wall.
Use wedges to maintain an expansion gap and keep the first row of planks in place. Never apply the adhesive in a broken line as this will cause the floor to squeak excessively. Any excess of adhesive should be immediately wiped off with a damp cloth or bostik handy wipes, followed by a dry cloth.
For the following row hold the plank at a 45 angle, engage the side tongue and then press into the adhesive and slide lengthwise until the end tongue fits into the previous row. Never use planks which are less than 450 mm in length to prevent “clustering”. Use the tapping block to tap with a hammer and tighten the fit. Continue laying planks until the entire spread adhesive has been covered. Always ensure that there is adequate glue on the subfloor to cover the entire plank. Ensure as you work that the planks are straight, otherwise the entire installation will be out of alignment. It is important that contact be made between the adhesive and the planks. A roller may be used after each section is laid or by standing on the planks with a rubber sole in a sliding motion in the direction of the anchor row in the starting wall to tighten the fit. Either manner is acceptable as long as good adhesive transfer is obtained shortly after installing the flooring. Do not hammer the top of boards ensure that the “anchor” row does not move. If necessary use some weight(s) to hold the planks tight to the sub-floor until the glue has properly bonded.
Furniture, equipment and traffic should be kept off the flooring until the adhesive is firmly set, usually approximately 12 to 24 hours (see adhesive instructions). After adhesive is set, mineral spirits or acetone for final cleaning of the surface may be used. Never flood the floor with excess water, clean with a mop/rag & recommended timber flooring agents like BONA.
FINISHING STEPS
Once all the laying procedures have been completed and the glue is sufficiently dry (see information on adhesive bottle), all spacing wedges should be removed. Any visible joints or gaps along the boards or at the ends where two boards meet should be filled with a filler to match the colour of the timber or a cork strip/ compound. Always test the filler on a leftover piece of plank to check for reaction (if any). Skirting-boards or scotia may now be installed by nailing, screwing or gluing directly to the perimeter walls or existing skirting. Never fix directly to the installed floor.
IMPORTANT STEPS
Once floors are laid on building sites, we recommend installing Floor Protection matting. View our webstore for our recommended floor protection products - THOR Floor Protection.
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Floating Floor Method:
The subfloor shall be clean and free from dust before commencing the installation (Use a broom or vacuum). The subfloor should not be washed or exposed to water prior to installation, always ensuring that the floor is fully dry prior to installation. The subfloor must be flat and free of any humps & deviations. For ground level concrete slabs, an application of Moisture Barrier will be required to be painted on the subfloor or a suitable floating floor underlay with a vapour or moisture film barrier. Next spread out the underlay over the moisture barrier or an appropriate and approved combination product that has a moisture or vapour film. Always begin the installation with the groove side of the board facing the wall. This is in order to avoid tapping the groove side of the board, .as tapping is always at the tongue side.
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Trim door frames by turning a panel upside down as a height measurement and using a multi-tool cutter or jamb saw to cut away the necessary height so that panels can slide easily underneath for a clean finish.
Allow for an expansion gap of approximately 10mm or greater between the first row of boards and the wall by using spacing wedges regularly along the length of the wall. Commence laying the flooring at the corner of the starting wall with the tongue of the first row of boards facing away from the wall. Start the next row with the piece left from the previous row or a board with a length which is at least 450 mm shorter or longer than the first board in the first row. The end joints of adjoining boards should be staggered by at least 450mm.
Glue the boards along all joins including end joins. Use only a cross-linked PVA wood adhesive. Never use regular wood glue as this will avoid normal expansion and contraction and will lead to cracks and other defects. When using a floating installation method the floor can not be spot glued as it will restrict the floor to move as a raft. Spot gluing does not allow the floor to move evenly as one surface and may cause board peaking.
Apply the glue to the top inside edge of the groove of the board (including the groove at the head joint) in a continuous line. Never apply the adhesive in a broken line as this will cause your floor to squeak and will lead to a deficient performance of your floor and avoid normal protection against moisture penetration via the joints. Any excess adhesive should be immediately wiped off with a clean damp cloth or bostik handy wipes. Wipe dry with a dry cloth to avoid smearing.
The first board of the next row is pressed into position and tapped into the other board using a rubber mallet and a tapping block. Never strike the board directly with the mallet. This will increase the risk of damaging the board. If you notice that the boards do not fit together entirely (open gap between boards), check whether the correct amount of glue has been used. Excess glue will prevent your boards from closing due to a vacuum effect.
Often the last row will be less than the width of the boards which will require cutting along the length of the board. Take the expansion gap into account when installing the last row of boards and thus cut the timber to the width of the gap of the last row minus the expansion gap of 10mm or greater. See above for exact width of the expansion joint, and do not include the tongue in this width. Apply the adhesive in the groove and put the boards into place with the spacing bar and wedges using a protective piece between wall and tool, and between spacing bar and boards. Place the timber as low on the wall as possible and with the spacing bar force the board into position. Do this as many times as necessary to close the gap. Remove all spacing wedges once all boards are glued and fitted and the glue is sufficiently dry (see advice on glue bottle).
***IMPORTANT***
If the engineered board purchased has a clip lock system, NO PVA Glue is required
The above guide is for Tongue & Groove profile system installation.
FINISHING STEPS
Once all the laying procedures have been completed and the glue is sufficiently dry (see information on adhesive bottle), all spacing wedges should be removed. Any visible joints or gaps along the boards or at the ends where two boards meet should be filled with a filler to match the colour of the timber or a cork strip/ compound. Always test the filler on a leftover piece of plank to check for reaction (if any). Skirting-boards or scotia may now be installed by nailing, screwing or gluing directly to the perimeter walls or existing skirting. Never fix directly to the installed floor.
IMPORTANT STEPS:
Once floors are laid on building sites, we recommend installing Floor Protection matting.
View our webstore for our recommended floor protection products - THOR Floor Protection
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