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Herringbone Floors

ENGINEERED TIMBER FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDE

Get ready to transform your space with our amazing Engineered Timber Flooring! It's designed for versatility, allowing you to choose between a direct stick glue-down method or a easy floating floor system. Just keep in mind, our beautiful Herringbone and Chevron styles can only be installed in a direct stick method. When it comes to heavy items like kitchen islands and cabinetry, it's best to install them directly on our sturdy direct stick flooring for a seamless finish in details. For floating floors, simply cut and install around those larger objects to allow the floors to expand and contract. And don’t forget to order a little extra—10% for your engineered plank style floors and 15% to 20% for the eye-catching Herringbone and Chevron styles to cover any installation cuts and fitment! Let's elevate your home with style!

Direct Stick Glue Down Method:

Welcome to our comprehensive guide on installing direct glue down engineered timber. If you're looking to enhance your space with a touch of elegance and durability, this step-by-step tutorial by Imperial Flooring Australia will walk you through the process seamlessly.

Preparing for Installation

 

Before you begin the installation process, ensure that you have the following tools and materials ready:

 

  • Engineered timber flooring

  • Bostik Ultraset HP timber flooring adhesives

  • 4.8mm Flat V Bostik Notch Trowel

  • Wakol PU Moisture barrier

  • Tape measure

  • Mitre Saw

  • Table Saw

  • Roberts pulling iron

  • Multi-tool

  • Spacers or wedges

  • Cleaning wipes

  • Vacuum or broom

  • Floor levelling compounds & equipment if applicable

Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor

 

Thoroughly clean and inspect the subfloor to ensure it's dry, level, and free of any debris (Vacuum or broom). The subfloor should not be washed or exposed to water prior to installation, always ensuring that the floor is fully dry prior to installation. In gluing the Engineered Timber directly to the sub-floor, the subfloor must be flat and free of any humps & deviations, rectify this by Installing Floor Self Levelling Compounds and grinding back any high spots. For particleboard or existing timber subfloors, we recommend a rough sand to remove the wax coating, sand down any peaking joins + remove any construction contaminants. Australian standards of 3mm over 3metres subfloor flatness tolerance is required on the preparation before installing new flooring. Install any floor self levelling compounds suitable for the subfloor type to rectify any subfloor deviations. Install a moisture barrier for ground level concrete subfloors or any moisture prone subfloors, we recommend and only Install with Wakol PU 280 moisture barriers.

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Step 2. Undercut Door Frames

 

Trim door frames by turning a panel upside down as a height measurement and using a multi-tool cutter or jamb saw to cut away the necessary height so that panels can slide easily underneath for a clean finish.

 

Step 3: Plan the Layout

 

Start planning the layout of the flooring, considering the orientation and any obstructions in the room. Once you have chosen a starting wall, snap a chalk line or laser to determine the straightness of the wall. After the adhesive is spread and the first row of planks are installed and secured, this will serve as an anchor for the subsequent rows of planks, which will be pushed snug against it. An expansion joint is also needed across the perimeter (8mm for Australian standards at minimum). Use wedges to maintain an expansion gap and keep the first row of planks in place.

 

Step 4: Apply the Adhesive

 

Using a trowel according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions on subfloor applications, hold the trowel at a 45 angle to the sub-floor to obtain the proper ridges. Begin spreading the adhesive at the starting wall and cover an area approximately 300mm wide along the length of the wall. The spread rate of adhesive and timing for installation should be according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions of working / dry times. Never spread excessive amounts of glue at one time, never the entire floor, and always work in sections. Never apply the adhesive in a broken line as this will cause the floor to squeak excessively. Any excess of adhesive should be immediately wiped off with a damp cloth or Bostik handy wipes, followed by a dry cloth.

 

Step 5: Install the Flooring

 

Carefully lay the first piece of flooring in place, ensuring it fits snugly against the spacers. Press down gently to secure it to the adhesive. Continue this process, ensuring each piece is aligned correctly. Proper placement of the first row of planks is very important. The tongue side of the plank will face away from the starting wall. Lay the first row parallel to the wall, ensuring that it is absolutely straight and tight relative to the starting wall.

For the following row hold the plank at a 45 angle, engage the side tongue and then press into the adhesive and slide lengthwise until the end tongue fits into the previous row. Never use planks which are less than 450 mm in length to prevent “clustering”. Use the tapping block to tap with a hammer and tighten the fit. Continue laying planks until the entire spread adhesive has been covered. Always ensure that there is adequate glue on the subfloor to cover the entire plank. Ensure as you work that the planks are straight, otherwise the entire installation will be out of alignment. It is important that contact be made between the adhesive and the planks. A white non marking rubber mallet may be used after each section is laid to hit the boards into the joining system tightly if required.  Do not hammer the edge of the boards, use a tapping block to ensure no damage occurs. If necessary use some weight(s) or straps to hold the planks tight to the sub-floor until the glue has properly bonded.

 

Step 6: Cut and Fit

 

When reaching the end of a row, measure and cut the last piece to fit. Remember to leave the required expansion gap. Don't install in a continuous structure or pattern, at Imperial Flooring Australia we install in a random stagger for a natural premium finish.

Step 7: Finishing Touches

 

Furniture, equipment and traffic should be kept off the flooring until the adhesive is firmly set, usually approximately 8-12 hours (see adhesive instructions). After adhesive is set, mineral spirits or acetone for final cleaning of the surface may be used. Never flood the floor with excess water, clean with a mop/rag & recommended timber flooring agents like BONA Floor Care Products.

 

Once all the laying procedures have been completed and the glue is sufficiently dry (see information on adhesive bottle), all spacing wedges should be removed. Any visible joints or gaps along the boards or at the ends where two boards meet should be filled with a filler to match the colour of the timber or a cork strip/ compound. Always test the filler on a leftover piece of plank to check for reaction (if any). Skirting-boards or finishing trims may now be installed by nailing, screwing or gluing directly to the perimeter walls or transition areas. Never fix directly to the installed floor.

 

IMPORTANT STEPS

Once floors are laid on building sites, we recommend installing Floor Protection matting to eliminate any un-necessary damage to the new floors during construction.. View our webstore for our recommended floor protection products - THOR Floor Protection.

Engineered Timber Flooring Install Guide
Engineered Timber Flooring Install Guide
Engineered Timber Flooring Install Guide

Flooring Accessories

Floating Floor Method:

The subfloor shall be clean and free from dust before commencing the installation (Use a broom or vacuum). The subfloor should not be washed or exposed to water prior to installation, always ensuring that the floor is fully dry prior to installation. The subfloor must be flat and free of any humps & deviations. For ground level concrete slabs, an application of Moisture Barrier will be required to be painted on the subfloor or a suitable floating floor underlay with a vapour or moisture film barrier. Next spread out the underlay over the moisture barrier or an appropriate and approved combination product that has a moisture or vapour film. Always begin the installation with the groove side of the board facing the wall. This is in order to avoid tapping the groove side of the board, .as tapping is always at the tongue side.

Trim door frames by turning a panel upside down as a height measurement and using a multi-tool cutter or jamb saw to cut away the necessary height so that panels can slide easily underneath for a clean finish.

 

Allow for an expansion gap of approximately 10mm or greater between the first row of boards and the wall by using spacing wedges regularly along the length of the wall. Commence laying the flooring at the corner of the starting wall with the tongue of the first row of boards facing away from the wall. Start the next row with the piece left from the previous row or a board with a length which is at least 450 mm shorter or longer than the first board in the first row. The end joints of adjoining boards should be staggered by at least 450mm.

 

Glue the boards along all joins including end joins. Use only a cross-linked PVA wood adhesive. Never use regular wood glue as this will avoid normal expansion and contraction and will lead to cracks and other defects. When using a floating installation method the floor can not be spot glued as it will restrict the floor to move as a raft. Spot gluing does not allow the floor to move evenly as one surface and may cause board peaking.

 

Apply the glue to the top inside edge of the groove of the board (including the groove at the head joint) in a continuous line. Never apply the adhesive in a broken line as this will cause your floor to squeak and will lead to a deficient performance of your floor and avoid normal protection against moisture penetration via the joints. Any excess adhesive should be immediately wiped off with a clean damp cloth or bostik handy wipes. Wipe dry with a dry cloth to avoid smearing.

 

The first board of the next row is pressed into position and tapped into the other board using a rubber mallet and a tapping block. Never strike the board directly with the mallet. This will increase the risk of damaging the board. If you notice that the boards do not fit together entirely (open gap between boards), check whether the correct amount of glue has been used. Excess glue will prevent your boards from closing due to a vacuum effect.

 

Often the last row will be less than the width of the boards which will require cutting along the length of the board. Take the expansion gap into account when installing the last row of boards and thus cut the timber to the width of the gap of the last row minus the expansion gap of  10mm or greater. See above for exact width of the expansion joint, and do not include the tongue in this width. Apply the adhesive in the groove and put the boards into place with the spacing bar and wedges using a protective piece between wall and tool, and between spacing bar and boards. Place the timber as low on the wall as possible and with the spacing bar force the board into position. Do this as many times as necessary to close the gap. Remove all spacing wedges once all boards are glued and fitted and the glue is sufficiently dry (see advice on glue bottle).

 

***IMPORTANT***

If the engineered board purchased has a clip lock system, NO PVA Glue is required

The above guide is for Tongue & Groove profile system installation.

 

FINISHING STEPS

Once all the laying procedures have been completed and the glue is sufficiently dry (see information on adhesive bottle), all spacing wedges should be removed. Any visible joints or gaps along the boards or at the ends where two boards meet should be filled with a filler to match the colour of the timber or a cork strip/ compound. Always test the filler on a leftover piece of plank to check for reaction (if any). Skirting-boards or scotia may now be installed by nailing, screwing or gluing directly to the perimeter walls or existing skirting. Never fix directly to the installed floor.

 

IMPORTANT STEPS:

Once floors are laid on building sites, we recommend installing Floor Protection matting.

View our webstore for our recommended floor protection products - THOR Floor Protection

Engineered Timber Flooring Install Guide
Engineered Timber Flooring Install Guide
Engineered Timber Flooring Install Guide
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